Oh Nakano. Just a few stops from the bright lights of Shinjuku, yet you feel like a world of your own. Your streets are a blend of nostalgia and discovery — where smoky izakayas stand side by side with otaku stores and offbeat cafes, each with a story to tell. A wild night out in this area of town is as much a rite of passage as choosing the perfect dish to order, whether it’s a simple bowl of udon in an underground eatery, or a perfectly cooked Japanese fushion pizza.

There’s a rhythm to your narrow alleyways, a quiet hum that comes alive as the day unfolds. In Nakano Broadway, I wander past vintage manga and quirky collectibles, feeling the pulse of a city that loves its past but isn’t afraid to play with the present. As the sun sets, you reveal a different side — warm lights spilling from izakayas, locals gathering for drinks, and a sense of community that’s rare in a city so vast.

        Start your journey moving north from the station, and you’ll enter Nakano Broadway, the beating heart of this town. Nakano Broadway is a complex place, and each floor in this busy shopping street has its completey own character and crowd. Take the escalator downstairs and you’ll find a crowded cluster of corridors with shops selling Japanese, Korean and other Asian groceries, used kimono, an old-school shoe repair shop, and eateries selling snacks and sweets. Daimon, is a legendary udon shop, open only for lunch, that sees a never-ending line of locals waiting to devour one of the shops meat covered noodle soups. It’s perhaps one of Tokyo’s best udon shops so be ready to get in line early or simply be patient, because this eatery will not disappoint. 

 

        Make your way upstairs to the second, third and forth floor where many more shops and eateries await, but here yet another crowd will find their own little paradise. Nakano Broadway is famous for its stores specializing in anime, manga, and pop culture memorabilia, with tiny stores filled with figurines, gaming cards, and other collectibles. 

Gaocchi on the 3rd floor is one such store, it’s narrow aisles filled with old-school toys and figurines. The most famous of them all is Mandarake — split into multiple shops on several floors, selling all kinds of manga and anime related goods. Die-hard fans of Takashi Murakami will want to check out Tonari no Zingaro on the 4th floor, where the artist’s famous plush flower pillows, stickers, shirts and more are sold for jaw-dropping prices. The overhyped Zingaro café on the other hand, is best skipped for more authentic spots in Nakano. 

        Fujiya Camera is another staple institution of Nakano, offering some of Tokyo’s best selection of vintage cameras cameras including rare to find models and film. The store is divided into two main buildings each specializing in either photography or filming equipment. 

If you’re looking for a place to unwind, head to LOU, located further north on Nakano’s famous bar street. This hip café offers a nice, though slighly overpriced, selection of drinks and snacks, with a few outdoor tables perfect for soaking up the local atmosphere.

        If you happen to visit in the late afternoon, be sure to make your way straight north into Yakushi Ai Shopping Street, the quieter, yet equally interesting sibling to its bar street further south. There are a few great restaurants on this street, Minami Indo Dining serving up authentic South Indian cuisine and delicious chai, New York Nakano, a hip izakaya favored by locals, and Ippuk, which serves yakisoba and desserts in a modern setting.

Most importantly however, be sure to catch the stunning late afternoon glow at this curiously photogenic pedestrian crossing, where a small pink kebab shop sits at a star-shaped corner near the local temple.

        After the sun has set and blue hour sets in, it’s time to dive in. Nakano at night is most people come for. Multiple side streets run north to south just east of the station, and here you will find hundreds of izakayas, eateries, bars and restaurants that serve drinks and local grub until the very early morning hours. 

There are too many spots to list, but some local favorites to check out are, Sansai (modern sake bar), Tototo (Japanese fusion pizza-pasta bar), Bar VICTORIA (cocktails), Bia Hoi Chop (casual vietnamese), Tokiwarai (izakaya) and PachiPachi (standing izakaya). Near PachiPachi you will find a hidden square with some small izakayas next to a beautiful, large tree and the now defunct, but iconic World Kaikan building. 

        Besides its culinary delights, the backstreets of Nakano are known for their retro lanterns, cables, and signs, making this part of town one of the most photogenic spots to capture the essence of nighttime Tokyo. Even if you’re not planning to go out, be sure to soak in the atmosphere and explore the many small side streets in the area — you’re sure to stumble upon something unique.

        If you are still in the mood for bar hopping, you can make your way down to Nakano’s quieter south side and brick street with a few European-looking restaurants and bars. Parpunte down a narrow alleyway is little known, but serves some of this areas most delicious Italian inspired food in a casual setting. 

If you’re visiting during the warmer season, you can also grab a few drinks and snacks from the nearby shops and make your way to Nakano Central Park, which is one of Tokyo’s few grass parks that allows picknicks and gatherings late into the night.


Photos: Sybilla Patrizia and Hidekazu Tsutsui