Step aside, Naoshima. It’s time for Awaji, Japan’s own architecture island, to take the spotlight. Despite boasting five remarkable buildings by three of Japan’s legendary Pritzker Prize-winning architects, Awaji remains a lesser-known destination for art and architecture enthusiasts.

Nestled in the eastern part of the Seto Inland Sea, Awaji serves as a bridge between Japan’s largest main island, Honshu, and its smallest, Shikoku. A 40-minute drive from Kobe takes you across the breathtaking Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge, the world’s longest suspension bridge at its completion in 1998. From the north side of Awaji, you can spend a day exploring the island’s most beautiful architectural sites before ending your tour again in Kobe, or, continue on towards Tokushima and then Naoshima.

Access:
The easiest way to access Awaji is from the north via Shinkansen first to Shin-Kobe station, and then via rental car. If you’re coming from Naoshima or Tokushima, you can also make your way across the island from the south and then finish at Shin-Kobe station. From Kobe it’s about a 40-minute drive to the north side of the island and then another hour to reach the architecture spots furthest to the south.

        Northern Awaji

Honpukuji Water Temple | Tadao Ando

︎ 1991
︎ 09:00-17:00
︎Google Maps

Start your morning at the legendary Honpukuji Water Temple, designed by none other than master architect Tadao Ando. A short flight of stairs takes you past an unassuming temple to a sleek, minimalist concrete entrance, a hallmark of Ando’s signature style. 
As you pass around the corner, you will reach the temple’s famous oval water pond (Mizumido) with floating waterlilies and lotus blossoms that are at their most beautiful during the late spring and summer months.

Descend down below into the main hall of the temple, a circular space surrounded by striking vermilion-painted wooden walls and lattice screens that divide the outer and inner sanctuaries. Inspired by the Jododo Hall of Jodoji Temple from the Kamakura period, Tadao Ando designed a light court behind the inner sanctuary, allowing sunlight to reflect off the walls and fill the space with a warm vermilion glow if you plan your visit in the late afternoon.

Yumebutai | Tadao Ando

︎2000
︎ 09:00-17:00
︎Google Maps

After visiting Honpukuji, take a short drive to the nearby Yumebutai, another stunning creation by the legendary Tadao Ando. Set on a hillside overlooking Osaka Bay, this sprawling complex, designed as an international conference and entertainment center, offers a great opportunity for a leisurely stroll through Ando’s timeless architectural spaces.

The highlight is the Hyakudan-en Garden or "100 Stepped Garden," an arrangement of small flower beds in a precise concrete grid that transforms with the seasons. For the best vantage point, take the elevator to the viewing platform. As you wander through the rest of the complex, explore winding pathways that lead to serene water features, open-air courtyards, and the signature elegance of Ando’s minimalist concrete design.

Zenbo Seinei | Shigeru Ban

︎ 2022
︎Google Maps

Further west, you’ll find Zenbo Seinei, a luxurious meditation and yoga retreat designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Shigeru Ban. This elegant 90-meter-long, 7-meter-wide structure spans a tranquil valley, offering serene views of Awaji’s natural beauty.

Access is exclusive to guests booking an overnight stay or a day retreat, so unless you’re ready to splurge on the steep price tag, you’ll have to settle for admiring its serene design from the nearby road.

Haru San San | Shigeru Ban

︎ 2022
︎ 11:00-18:00, Closed Wed
︎Google Maps
︎ Reservations

Die-hard fans of Shigeru Ban may want to visit the nearby Haru San San, a farm-to-table restaurant that opened to great fanfare in 2022. While slightly on the pricey side, the lunch course is far more accessible than a stay at Zenbo Seinei and offers a chance to admire Ban’s thatched-roof design, supported by his signature paper tube pillars.

Reservations recommended, especially when visiting on the weekend.

Lunch Course with seasonal vegetables and meat: 2,700~

        Southern Awaji

Wakoudo-no-hiroba Park | Kenzo Tange

︎ 1967
︎ 09:00-17:00
︎Google Maps

On the southern ridge of Awaji, about one hour from Shigeru Ban’s buildings, take a small windy road up on an unassuming mountain until you reach Wakoudo-no-hiroba Park. The parking lot already reveals in the distance why you came so far, a small but impressive structure by one of Japan’s undefeated OGs of architecture: Kenzo Tange. Upon its completion the structure was engulfed by some controversy, with Tange refusing to attend the opening ceremony and the building never being introduced in architectural journals at his request. Due to this, it is now known as one of Tange’s "forgotten works."

Built to honor student workers mobilized to military factories during World War II, many of whom perished in air raids, the memorial was commissioned by a politically charged organization chaired by then-Prime Minister Nobusuke Kishi. Upon learning the organization’s background just before completion, Tange distanced himself, skipping the inauguration and avoiding publicity. After years of abandonment and after being damaged by a large earthquake, the site was eventually redeveloped, with exhibition materials donated to the Ritsumeikan University International Peace Museum. Today, Tange’s forgotten structure has been reopened as a peace memorial, inviting visitors to reflect on history and the pursuit of lasting peace.

Ottomanegi Onion

︎ 2016
︎ 09:00-17:00, Closed Tue
︎Google Maps

While not a classic architectural site, southern Awaji offers a quirky attraction that perfectly embodies the island’s obsession with its famous onions. Known for producing some of Japan’s finest and most flavorful onions, Awaji celebrates this local specialty with a larger-than-life tribute: a giant onion statue standing 2.5 meters tall, 2.8 meters in diameter, and weighing 200 kilograms. Because in Japan, even onions deserve a monumental homage!

Located behind the visitor center — where you can enjoy delicious onion soup and browse for souvenirs — the statue also offers stunning sunset views over the Seto Inland Sea, making it a fun and scenic stop to conclude your architecture tour.

         KOBE SPECIAL:

If you’re passing through Kobe on your way to Awaji, consider adding these two spots near Shin-Kobe’s Shinkansen station to your itinerary for a worthwhile detour.

Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum

︎ 2014
︎ Sat, Sun, Tue, Wed: 09:30-16:30
︎Google Maps

Just a couple minutes walk from Shin-Kobe Station, the beautifully desigend Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum is Japan’s only museum dedicated to — you guessed it — carpentry tools. Celebrating the skills and spirit of the craftspeople behind the country’s wooden architecture, the museum features around 1,000 tools, a full-scale model of Toshodaiji Temple's Golden Hall framework, and a structural model of a tea ceremony room. Housed in a modern yet traditionally inspired wooden structure, the museum was designed, built and is operated by Takenaka, one of Japan’s oldest and largest construction companies.

Ninomiya Ichiba Market

︎ 1960
︎ 09:00-18:00, Closed Sun
︎Google Maps

Located about a 15-minute walk from Shin-Kobe Station, Ninomiya Ichiba is one of the area’s most atmospheric and old-school shotengai (market streets), beloved by locals since its establishment in the Taisho era. Known as the community’s “kitchen,” the market offers a wide selection of fresh goods at affordable prices, attracting both local shoppers and restaurant owners.

While its economic heyday may have passed, the market retains a gritty charm that makes it a fascinating space to explore. For a truly unique experience, visit before or after hours (especially on a Sunday) to capture Japan’s retro aesthetic at its most cinematic.

        With some of the world’s most spectacular modern architecture, shopping malls with breathtaking rooftop gardens, beautiful design boutiques, art galleries, fine dining and even some gritty backstreet alleys - Ginza will make sure to leave your credit card glowing and your mind inspired forever. 

Start your day at Ginza Six, the fashion and design empire opened in 2018, which takes up a whole block on Ginza’s main street and boasts one of Tokyo’s best (and free) rooftop gardens, an outstanding art and design bookstore on the 6th floor, an art gallery, and even a Noh Theatre for traditional Japanese entertainment.  

On a sunny day, get yourself some of the culinary creations from Ginza Six’s chic food court on the basement level and make your way up to the rooftop garden where you can get a 360 degree view of the surrounding area, at perhaps Tokyo’s most exclusive picnic spot.

         Next, head down the world-famous main street of Ginza which is lined with flagship stores of some of the world’s biggest names in fashion and stunning architectural gems built by the world’s who-is-who in architecture. Look out for Ginza Place, Louis Vuitton Ginza, Mikimoto 2 and, if you go further north or south, the enormous Tokyo International Forum. 

On Ginza’s main street you will also find Itoya (with the signature red paper clip above its entrance), perhaps Japan’s most famous shop for all things stationary. Spanning over two buildings and 18 floors in total, Itoya stocks anything from pens, paints, craft materials, canvases, paper, postcards, travel gear and has two cafes and even a greenhouse.

Especially worth mentioning is the selection of fine papers by TAKEO on the 7th floor, a branch of one of Japan’s most famous paper distributers boasting a range of 1000 papers in almost any colour or texture imagineable which can be cut to size in store.

        Grab yourself a stylish lunch and cocktail at bills, which will win over anyone’s heart with its eye-poppingly gorgeous interior design, a beautiful view over Ginza and some of Tokyo’s best fluffy pancakes. 

For some more casual food, head over to Ginza Kagari and indulge in its famously creamy chicken-broth ramen (expect to queue), enjoy Tokyo’s best vegan pancakes at Ain Soph., or check out METoA, a sleek cafe&restaurant with a second-floor art space run by Mitsubishi Electric with outstanding detox waters, house sodas and fruit smoothies.

For an afternoon tea Japanese-style, make your way to HIGASHIYA, an exclusive tea salon in the heart of Ginza which fuses the ancient tradition of Japanese tea ceremony with beautiful modern interior design. Select your desired tea creation from seasonal fruit teas, artisinal iced green teas or more traditional matcha, which come paired with one of HIGASHIYA’s seasonal, handmade Japanese sweets, known in Japanese as ‘wagashi’. 

        For more design inspiration, check out Ginza Graphic Gallery, which features free monthly exhibitions showing some of Japan’s best graphic artists and international talents. It also hosts the yearly Tokyo Art Directors Club and Tokyo Type Directors Club competition exhibition, including winners of type, poster and book design categories.

Over on the top floor of Hermès you can find Le Forum, another free gallery space in Ginza run by the French fashion giant, featuring exciting contemporary art and crafts exhibitions in a beautiful glass cube and also hosts occasional film screenings in its own cinema.

        Continue your shopping spree over at MUJI Ginza’s global flagship store, a 7-floor, all-things-MUJI empire, featuring not only our beloved storage, living, household, stationary and skincare sections, but also a MUJI Diner, a fruits&vegetable market, juice stand, bakery, restaurant, library and MUJI Hotel, amongst other things. Known for its no-fuzz, non-brand, minimalist style (which has again become “the MUJI style”), this Japanese-favourite has won over the hearts of people well beyond the borders of Japan.

At Dover Street Market Ginza, get inspired by the avant-garde creations of international fashion giants such as Comme des Garçons, sacai, OFF-WHITE, Prada and Balenciaga, as well as up-and-coming designers whose in-shop displays have been carefully curated by the Dover Street Market team. 

On top of Dover Street Market is also one of the city’s most serene, hidden rooftop gardens, complete with a beautiful shrine, which makes for perhaps the best spot to escape the hustle and bustle of Ginza.

        For another free view of Ginza, head to Kiriko Terrace on top of Tokyu Plaza, where you can find a vertical rooftop garden with a pool, as well as chic fashion boutiques and a moderately-priced basement-level food court on the lower floors. The restaurants on the Ginmachi dining floors at the top of Tokyu Plaza Ginza offer stellar views of the surrounding area and a perfect break from a busy shopping tour of Ginza.

If you are looking for an authentic local food experience and a gritty street food feel, head over to Sanchoku Inshokugai. This backstreet alley located beneath the JR railways between Yurakucho and Shimbashi stations, is a real hidden gem for those seeking a different dining experience. Boasting seven small eateries each serving food from a different Japanese region, catch one of the tiny tables and surround yourself with local workers for whom this is a popular spot for after-work drinks and snacks.

Bonus: The Four Hidden Shrines of Ginza

While Ginza is mostly known for its shopping temples, world-famous architecture and expensive fine-dining, here at WHEN IN TOKYO we also appreciate the small, more mundane pleasures that Tokyo has to offer. Whether its on a rooftop, in a cramped alleyway or on top of a shopping mall, tiny shrines can sometimes be found in the most curious of locations and a great way to discover another side of Ginza. 

The most interesting of them all is perhaps Toyoiwa Inari Shrine, which is located in a dark alleyway, so tiny, one person can barely walk through. If you can manage to find the entrance on either the North or West side of the block, you’ll be rewarded with one of the most unique shrines in Tokyo, and a side of Ginza so different, you’ll almost forget that you are actually in Tokyo’s most glitzy neighborhood. 

Miwa Shrine on the rooftop of nearby Dover Street Market is slightly bigger shrine, yet equally unknown by most locals, and a perfect spot to take a break from busy Tokyo.

Two more hidden rooftop shrines await, one in a corner on top of Ginza Six’s enormous rooftop garden, and a second, on top of the smaller Daiko Asahi Building on the Northeast of Ginza.

To reach the Asashi-Inari Shrine, take the elevator on the side of the Daiko Asahi Building up to the top floor and climb up a flight of stairs where you’ll find yet another, so curious side of Tokyo culture, complete with more views over Ginza.

        Look beyond the tourist trap that is Ueno and discover Yanaka, a quiet neighborhood with a small-town feel and old-Tokyo vibe, full of small artisanal cafés and art shops. 

Start you day from Nippori Station and walk towards the west until you reach the famous Yūyake Dandan stairs leading down into Yanaka Ginza - Yanaka’s main shopping district. Here you will find a cluster of small shops ranging from eccentric stores such as Shinimonogurui, a stamp shop which creates custom made Hanko stamps with funny looking animals, to local fish mongers, mom-and-pop stores, art and craft shops and more.

         Head south and you will find popular artisinal cafés such as CIBI or HAGISO which cater to the younger and more design-conscious crowd that is slowly turning Yanaka into a hub for local artists and craftspeople. CIBI is also an amazing breakfast spot,  offering popular breakfast staples such as granola with yoghurt and fruit, avocado toast or egg toast which both come with an outstanding homemade multigrain bread. 

If you are visiting during the warm season, be sure to stop at Himitsudo, an insanely popular shop famous for its kakigori (shaved ice) which the shop serves all year round but is especially refreshing during Tokyo’s hot summers. Even on weekdays, expect a queue in front of Himitsudo, but if you decide to brave the wait, you will be rewarded with a deliciously soft kakigori made from naturally sourced ice from the Nikko region. 

         After exploring the busy shopping streets of Yanaka Ginza, stroll through the beautiful Yanaka Cemetery south of Nippori Station, where you can find the graves of many famous Japanese, such as members of the Tokugawa family, artists, authors, politicians and actors of the Meiji Era as well as the serene Tennoji Temple which is the perfect place for a moment of peacefulness. 

In springtime, Yanaka Cemetery turns into one of Tokyo’s most celebrated cherry blossom spots, when its main road, fittingly called “Sakura Dori,” transforms into an explosion of pale-pink blossoms.

Just to the south of Yanaka Cemetery the road turns into what’s known by locals as the “Rue des Arts” or “Street of the Arts,” where you will find several art galleries such as SCAI THE BATHHOUSE which regularly hosts well-known national and international artists such as Anish Kappor, Tadanori Yokoo and others. 

         Just off of “Rue des Arts” is Ueno Sakuragi Atari, a beautiful small cluster of old Japanese houses which have found their revival thanks to a group of artists and local government funding. Ueno Sakuragi Atari is hands-down our favorite Yanaka spot, hosting not only the delicious Vaner bakery, but also Yanaka beer hall - a perfect stop to indulge in Yanaka’s old town vibe while enjoying a modern drinking and dining experience.

If you want to continue your walk through the quiet side streets of Yanaka, head slightly up the hill to find Mikado, a small, retro food and drink shop at a unique triangular crossing which seems to be lost in a different time and age. This spot is famous for its giant Himalayan cedar tree which is often featured in Japanese TV dramas and was saved by a local community group from being cut down and is now one the area’s most famous points of interest.

Make your way further down the hill and you will come across Nennekoya, a quirky café and shop overflowing with images, figurines and knickknacks of cats - in homage to Yanaka’s most popular animal and certainly a must-stop for any feline fanatic. 

         Vintage lovers will want to check out EXPO and Manekin, two small vintage shop selling anything from eccentric clothes, to old cameras, radios and rare finds from all over the world. A few minutes walk from EXPO is Kayaba Coffee, a quiet café with a second floor tatami room which has been catering to locals since 1938 and a perfect place to soak in some more traditional atmosphere on its second floor tatami room. 

Circle back towards Nippori Station and you will discover the small Kosho Same No Ha bookstore with its beautiful entryway, which sells antique books, postcards and Japanese prints for a bargain. 

Make your last stop just across the street at Sampota Cafe Nombiriya, a small restaurant and café with a showa-era Japanese vibe that serves up some of the area’s most delicious meals (try the coriander gyoza and deep-friend sesame dango) and best atmospheres to end your day in Yanaka-style.

        If the world of sleek design, cutting-edge architecture and hip fashion is your natural habitat, then Omotesando and adjacent Aoyama will become your new hubs of choice.

Whether it’s for a walk to see the city’s most stunning architectural gems, a seemingly unlimited amount of design boutiques, a tranquil rooftop garden or some famous fluffy pancakes - welcome to Japan’s first destination for all things fashionable.

         Centered around the main, tree-lined avenue with the same name, Omotesando boasts seemingly all of the world’s luxury fashion brands which appear to have taken it upon themselves to see who can create the most intimidatingly beautiful flagship store built by the who-is-who of architecture. Most notable perhaps are Dior’s sleek, white fashion tower created by Sanaa, Toyo Ito’s Tod’s Omotesando store, Tadao Ando-designed Omotesando Hills and MVRDV’s bold Gyre, which houses both Chanel and the MoMa Design Store as well as a selection of other exquisite boutiques and restaurants. Head into the many side streets that run North and South of Omotesando Avenue and you will discover even more hidden architectural gems such as Sou Fujimoto’s outstanding Omotesando Branches, Ciel Rouge’s world-famous Harajuku Protestant Church or Tadao Ando’s Bank Gallery which regularly hosts pop-up exhibitions. 

        Start your day at the main intersection that inofficially divides the neighborhoods of Harajuku and Omotesando, and marvel at the psychedelic mirror entrance of Tokyu Plaza. The entrance was catapulted to global fame when featured in will.i.am and Justin Bieber’s #thatPOWER music video and is now one of the city’s most visited photo-spots.

Make your way up the escalator (or, do it like a local and take the elevator on the West side of the building) and go directly to Tokyu Plaza’s 6th floor Omohara Forest, one of the city’s most beautiful rooftop gardens and the embodiment of what an urban oasis should be like. With a gorgeous view over the surrounding areas, lush trees and plants, spacious seating and a beer truck during the summer months, Omohara Forest provides a welcome break during a busy day out and about where you can bring your own food and drinks, relax and enjoy a quiet moment away from the urban buzz.

        Next, head up the long, tree-lined avenue of Omotesando and take in the marvelous architecture on both sides of the road. Omotesando Hills is a sleek, upscale shopping mall designed by world renown architect Tadao Ando and leads several stories up and down into the ground while usually not being too crowded. 

Another must-visit spot on the main avenue of Omotesando is Espace Louis Vuitton, a free art space hosted by Fondation Louis Vuitton which has sublime views over the neighborhood and exhibitions featuring up-and-coming as well as more established artists.

When strolling around Omotesando be sure to check out all of the side streets leading North and South of the main avenue, as this is where you will find the neighborhoods true hidden gems such as vintage stores Nadia and G2?,  B-Side Label whose cute, Japanese-themed stickers make for great presents, and 6% Doki Doki, brainchild of Sebastian Masuda and mecca for kawaii Harajuku fashion. 

If you want to discover some of the latest in art and design from some of Tokyo’s up and coming creatives, head over to Design Festa Gallery with its signature black bird’s nest façade, and check out the many small exhibitions as well as a café and okonomiyaki restaurant on the inside. 

        Leading towards Shibuya from the South of Omotesando Avenue, Cat Street boasts a range of small and medium-sized boutiques showcasing the city’s latest fashion trends.

Somewhere halfway on Cat Street, hidden on the second floor of a sleek little building lies Micasadeco & Cafe, whose ricotta fluffy pancakes will forever change your idea of what pancakes should actually taste like. To avoid queuing, visit during the late afternoon of a weekday and opt for the classic fluffy panckes served with a heavenly whipped cream and melt into the inescapably delicious world of Tokyo’s world-famous, jiggly pancakes.

For some Japanese fine dining, grab a luxurious but reasonably priced kaiseki (course meal) lunch at Sashya Kanetanka, one of the area’s most beautifully designed restaurants serving traditional Japanese cuisine.

        Around the corner at Chun Shui Tang, grab some delicious Soy Milk Jasmine Tea with Tapioca Pearls (aka Bubble Tea), which is one of the city’s only vegan versions of the much hyped Taiwanese drink. 

On the 4th floor of GYRE, a beautifully designed food floor with a café, restaurant, shop and terrace overlooking Omotesando makes for a perfect stopover on a busy shopping day through Omotesando. The spacious uni café with its slope of wooden cubes and wonderfully curated urban jungle are as much of a feast for the eyes as for the stomach. Before you head out, be sure to check out GYRE’s basement floor where HAY and Cibone sell some of Tokyo’s best sellection of interior design goods. 

        Skip the much overrated Aoyama Flower Market Teahouse (and its one-hour long queues) and instead head to Nicolai Bergmann’s breathtaking flower shop and café Nomu, which take flower design and sipping coffee amongst blossoms to an entirely new level. 

While in the area be sure to stop by Kengo Kuma-designed Nezu Museum which features beautiful arts and crafts from ancient Japan and boasts one of the city’s most wonderful, traditional Japanese gardens which can be visited for free with a museum ticket.

Fans of star architect Kengo Kuma’s work will want to make their way further down a quiet side street and marvel at the breathtaking SunnyHills at Minami-Aoyama, where visitors can sample a free pineapple cake plus tea, courtesy of Taiwanese sweets-maker SunnyHills.

        For more dining and shopping options check out Spiral Market, which sells beautiful design goods from Japanese and foreign brands. Dive into the exquisite world of Japanese Tea at Sakurai Tea Experience on the fifth floor of the same building, where you can sample sophisticated traditional and contemporary tea creations in a modern bar-style tea house. 

Lovers of Japanese sweets should stop by HIGASHIYA man, a small outpost of HIGASHIYA Ginza that sells exquisite, handmade confectionaries out of a lovely hole-in-the-wall shop that specializes in “manjū,” sweet buns filled with red bean paste, nuts or seasonal fruit.

To finish off your day in style, head over to TWO ROOMS, a popular bar and restaurant at the border between Omotesando and Aoyama. Especially during summer nights, TWO ROOM’s terrace is one of Tokyo’s must-go-to spots for a relaxed dinner or a late-night drink overlooking Tokyo, while the inside bar boasts a solid menu of signature and classic cocktails, perfect for a low-key glam night-out.

        Shibuya’s sleek and relaxed neighbors Daikanyama, Nakameguro and Ebisu stun with stylish boutiques, art galleries and high-end restaurants drawing the hip and young Tokyo-crowd hungry for design-inspiration.

Start your day at T-Site - the exclusive conglomeration of shops, a restaurant and lounge, based around Tsutaya Bookstore, which in itself is worth traveling to Daikanyama for.

Make sure to take a break at the gorgeous Anjin lounge on the second floor of Tsutaya bookstore (central building) and indulge in one of the unique green tea and coffee creations, or, a simple meal and late-night cocktails. If you are craving something a little sweeter, head to Dolce Tacubo, one of the most beautiful dessert shops in town and try out their to-die-for choux à la crème.

         For a more traditional experience visit Kyu Asakura House, an early 20th century residence plus garden which will make you feel transported right back into old Japan. The entry fee is a mere 100 yen for adults and will give you access to the building itself and the lovely garden, perfect for an afternoon stroll away from the crowds of central Tokyo. 

Near Kyu Asakura House, you can take a coffee break at LURF GALLERY CAFE which hosts a beautiful cafe featuring vintage furniture from Denmark and a small shop selling design goods.

Further down the road towards Shibuya you will find Log Road, a hip road of with shops, a brewery, restaurant and outdoor seating, all nestled in a quiet, green oasis.

        Meguro river around Nakameguro is home to some stylish boutiques and restaurants and one of the city’s best places to see the cherry blossoms in spring. 

If you visit Tokyo during other seasons, be sure to check out the enormous Starbucks Reserve Roastery. Designed by famed architect Kengo Kuma, the world’s biggest Starbucks is a 4-floor coffeeshop, roastery, bakery, bar and inspiration lounge located right next to Meguro river.

If you are a photo enthusiast, head over to Ebisu and check out the Tokyo Photographic Art Museum, or photographic art bookstore NADiff a/p/a/r/t and learn more about the work of Japanese and international avant-garde photographers.

        Finish your day in style at Longrain, a modern Thai restaurant with sleek interior and outstanding views over Tokyo, or Ebisu Yokocho, a tightly-packed backstreet alley, lined with smokey stalls selling mouthwatering delicacies such as grilled beef sushi to Tokyo’s late-night crowd.

Over in a small side street is Bar TRENCH, a favorite among cocktail aficionados, and always worth a trip, even if you don’t already happen to be in the area. During the warm months, crowds will spill out into the street, making for a wonderfully laid-back atmosphere, and paired with one of TRENCH’s carefully crafted drinks in hand, it’s not hard to imagine why this bar is consistently ranked as one of Asia’s best.

        If Blade Runner-style neon signs, rooftop bars, crazy nightlife and drunk-salaryman-watching are your thing, Shinjuku might become your new hub of choice. With a vast area that stretches to the west and east of the world’s busiest train station, Shinjuku boasts everything from fine dining, shopping, gritty backstreet alleys, adult entertainment, ant-like masses of people, to a huge Godzilla statue towering over a massive cinema.

As with many things, the best way to experience Shinjuku is from above. 

At the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building Observatories on the West Side of Shinjuku Station, you can get some of the most stunning (and most importantly free) views of Tokyo up until 10:30pm at night (North Observation Deck) and, if you are lucky, you might even catch the majestic outline of Mount Fuji if you are visiting on a clear day during the cold season.

        Over on the east side of Shinjuku Station lies Kabukicho, frequently documented by photographers and filmmakers, and the home of host(ess) clubs, love hotels, nightclubs and izakayas (Japanese pubs). Kabukicho is not just legendary for its grittiness and secrecy, but also a curious place to learn more about the darker and hidden sides of Tokyo.

While many of the shops and restaurants in the Kabukicho area and the Shinjuku Sanchome Shopping District are open throught the day as well, it is only at night when this part of Tokyo really comes alive and the streets of eastern Shinjuku get flooded with the lights of shrill LED. 

        Before you head for an unforgettable night-out in Kabukicho however, you might want to stretch your legs or have a picnic at one of Tokyo’s most beautiful parks - Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden - which, during cherry blossom season in spring, turns into a wonderland of pink pedals. 

Nearby Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden you will find Sekaido, perhaps Tokyo’s largest art supply store, selling anything from paints, brushes, stationary, picture frames and pretty much any thinkable art and design tool to Tokyo’s artist and hobby artist community.

At vegan restaurant Ain Soph., you can get Tokyo’s undisputedly best dairy and egg-free fluffy pancakes, which will win even non-vegans’ hearts over with their smooth texture and to-die-for homemade vegan ice cream.

        While Shinjuku certainly isn’t short of bars and restaurants, try and seek out one of the world famous backstreet alleys (or “yokocho” in Japanese) which are gritty, yet perfectly safe clusters of small side streets lined with tiny bars and pubs serving late-night grub to the local crowd. Some of these establishments might not have English menus and many will charge a cover charge per person (usually between 300-500 yen), but few other places will give you that one-of-a-kind experience of an authentic but slowly disappearing nighttime culture. 

While Golden Gai (East of Kabukicho) and Omoide Yokocho (West of Shinjuku Station) are the most famous of such yokocho backstreet alleys and therefore attract a good amount of tourists, check out the small, and fairly unknown Omoide Nukemichi with its unmissable red lanterns, which makes both for a perfect photo spot and great off-the-beaten-track pub experience. 

         While you are on the west side of Shinjuku Station, you might want to head for Yodobashi Camera’s Shinjuku West store, which is not just famous for being one of the world’s largest electronics stores but also one of Tokyo’s most iconic neon light spots and often featured in photographs and documentaries. 

Shinjuku Extra — Rooftop Gardens

Although it’s home to some of Tokyo’s best nightlife, Shinjuku also features two of the city’s best rooftop terraces, both located in front of and on top of JR Shinjuku’s New South Exit.

After exploring the terrace space in front of the JR New South Exit, take the elevator up to the 6F and discover a quiet, but expansive rooftop garden that spans over the 6th and 7th floor as well as the South and East Terrace of the NEWoMan shopping mall. The breathtaking views over Shinjuku station and the skyline of downtown Shinjuku make for a perferct stop from a shopping spree, or an impromptu picnic spot over the roofs of Tokyo.

After discovering the upper deks, make your way down the stairs on the outside of the building and you will find that this rooftop garden continues downwards across several levels until you reach the 4th floor of NEWoMan.

        Located just in between Ueno and Asakusa stations, Kappabashi gets often overlooked due to its famous neighbors, but is nevertheless a gem that shouldn’t be passed up by any lover of kitchenware or anyone interested in getting another insight into Tokyo’s manifold subcultures. Spanning over almost one kilometer and boasting a whooping 170 shops selling anything from plastic food samples, to tableware, bakery equipment, lacquerware, packaging, bamboo wares, lanterns, uniforms and any other restaurant equipment imaginable, Kappabashi is not just Japan’s but one of the world’s largest areas dedicated to kitchen implements.

        When you leave Tawaramachi Station (Ginza Line), look out for the giant chef above Niimi, which (for obvious reasons) has become the street’s main landmark. Start your shopping tour at Dengama, on the opposite of corner of Niimi,  where you can find reasonably priced Japanese ceramic bowls, cups, tea pots and more. 

Your next stop should be Tokyo Biken, one of several manufacturers of Japan’s famous plastic food samples you can often find next to the entrance of restaurants and bars. Marvel at the intricately hand-made plastic foods in Tokyo Biken’s display and head inside for a great selection of food souvenirs such as sushi-charms, food phone cases, magnets and more. This would also be a great places to buy some new home decorations, that is, if you have always dreamed of surprising your partner with a fake rotisserie chicken or mug of ice-cold and very plasticy beer. 

        Make your way further North to Yokoyama, a specialist in baking supplies which has a great selection of cake and chocolate molds as well as Japanese cookie/ food cutters in beautiful, seasonal variations such as cherry blossoms, gingko, maple leaves, or mount fuji.

Kama-Asa is another Kappabashi favorite, and should be on anyone’s go-to list in search for a high-quality Japanese knife. Spread across two floors and two buildings, Kama-Asa does not only offer one of Tokyo’s largest selection of cutting tools but also a beautifully designed store selling anything from yakitori grills to ironware and bamboo steamers.

Only a few steps further is Komatsuya, which is hard to miss for its bold, open display of ceramic bowls, stacked up all the way to the ceiling of the store and attracting many customers due to its bargain prices.

        Cross over to the other side of the street and be sure to marvel at the giant black beetle, another landmark of Kappabashi which is proudly hanging above Ganso Shokuhin plastic sample store. 

Café Sensing Touch of Earth is one of few coffeeshops in the area and a perfect stopover during your busy shopping tour. The industrial-style café spreads across two floors and is a popular meeting point for Kappabashi’s younger crowd who like to indulge in one of homemade teas, coffees and floats on the menu.

Finally, end your tour of Kappabashi at Manryo, a shop selling fun, over-the-top decorations, bamboo steamers, tea cups and any other magnificent kitch that we all love so much about our favorite Chinese restaurants.

         Koenji is special. While often overlooked by visitors to Tokyo, locals know this area as home to some of the city’s most creative, free-thinking, and perhaps less rule-abiding Tokyoites, who have made it a vibrant and diverse neighborhood in its own right. With its vintage stores, unique architecture, and diverse range of food options, Koenji is the perfect place to start exploring this west side of Tokyo. In the evening, the neighborhood bursts into life as a popular drinking spot, where locals crowd its famous backstreet alleys, creating one of Tokyo’s best nighttime experiences.

Start your day with a casual walk, and make your way southwest of the JR station up a pedestrian street known for its vintage stores. There are Safari,  ZOOL and Slut on the main street, while Hurry Up, Mecha, Anemone and a few others are more hidden in the smaller alleyways.

        While in this area, be sure to check out Sou Fujimoto’s famous House NA on this street with its cube-shaped open layout. While it may offer little privacy for its residents, it’s an eye-catching architectural gem not to be missed.

On Koenji’s north side, you can continue your architectural journey at Za Koenji, designed by none other than Pritzker Prize awarded architect Toyo Ito. The building operates as a theater and cinema, but even without a ticket, you are usually able to check out the beautiful winding staircase on the inside.

        And then there is the Kita-Kore Building in the northwest, a legendary cluster of houses encapsulating Koenji’s unique sense of creativity and wonderful weirdness. If you visit before opening hours, marvel at the famous monster building on the corner, and be sure to return later in the afternoon when the shops and bars come to life. What most people don’t realize is that there’s a small, almost hidden pathway to the right of the building that leads straight into its core.

On the inside, you will find a courtyard-looking area that seems like it’s about to collapse any minute, and here you’ll find a wonderful small bar serving drinks, chai and food late into the morning hours that could exist nowhere but exactly in this neighborhood.

        If you still want to continue your evening exploration of Koenji, then make your way to the smokey street underneath and next to the JR railway, where izakayas serve local grub and drinks any evening of the week. This yokocho alley is one of Tokyoites most popular and authentic, and not as crowded by tourists as some other ones in Shinjuku or Asakusa.

Kosugiyu is a locals’ favorite sento (bathhouse) located in an old house which was renovated and re-designed by Koenji’s younger creatives. If you’re not into marveling at the Mount Fuji painting on the inside while soaking your naked body with locals, then opt for the cafe and coworking space next door  which is also a perfect place to relax after a day of exploring Koenji.

        Koenji Extra:

If you happen to visit in August, be sure to attend the famous Awa Odori Dance Festival which draws a crowd of over a million people who gather to marvel at the beautiful dancers and rhythmic sounds of drums well into the night.

Photos: Sybilla Patrizia and Hidekazu Tsutsui

        The two adjacent neighborhoods of Marunouchi and Otemachi make it seem like it’s just all strictly down to business, but don’t be fooled by the rows of office towers and throng of suit-wearers, because this billion-dollar-heavy patch of land knows how to make you spend that hard-earned money well.

Watch as the mighty Shinkansen bullet trains zoom into historic Tokyo Station from the free rooftop gardens of KITTE and the Shin-Marunouchi Building’s (marunouchi) HOUSE Garden from where you can get some of the best views of central Tokyo while taking a rest from your busy sightseeing day. Both KITTE and the Shin-Marunouchi Building offer a range of nice dining and shopping options, while the latter let’s you order food from its 7th floor dining floor and take it outside onto the rooftop garden to enjoy.  

        Take a stroll alongside Marunouchi Naka-dori Avenue with its small sleek boutiques and make your way down to Marunouchi Brick Square and the Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum which is housed in a late 19th century building designed by English architect Josiah Conder. You can also make a bigger circle and walk through the Outer Gardens of the Imperial Palace which are adjacent to the palace’s moat and the photogenic Seimon Stone Bridge from where you can take in the stark contrast between downtown Tokyo’s urban skyline against the green patch that is the Imperial Palace. 

Further down the road you will find the world-famous Tokyo International Forum which frequently hosts large international events and congresses and which is one of Tokyo’s most impressive architectural structures. Take the elevator up to the top floor and enjoy the marvelous view of the building’s interior and its zig-zag walkways which are beautifully illuminated at night.  

        If you want to feel like modern-day royalty, head over to two of Tokyo’s most dazzling hotels, the Aman and Palace Hotel, which are both located in the Otemachi area and which are just simply in a league of their own.

To reach the Aman, take the hotel’s very own elevator up to the 33F of Otemachi Tower, upon entering you will find yourself in a serene world of groundbreaking traditional Japanese design paired with sleek interiors, one of Tokyo’s best cocktail lounges and an unbeatable view of the city. Back on the ground floor, surrounded by a small urban forest, the Aman also boasts a small, but sleek café inside a modern glass cube which serves wonderful desserts, afternoon tea, and warm cuisine.

Over at the Palace Hotel’s ground floor lounge you can enjoy a classy afternoon tea with a view of the Imperial Palace moat while being surrounded by exquisite pieces of traditional Japanese lacquerware, ceramics and flower arrangements which are displayed throughout the hotel’s first floor.

        To immerse yourself in a completely different world, head over to the underground passageway on the east side of Tokyo Station to find Tokyo Character Street, a cluster of busy alleyways boasting over 30 shops dedicated to many of Japan’s most famous character franchises including Pokémon, Studio Ghibli, Hello Kitty, Rilakkuma and more. 

In the same underground shopping area you will also find Tokyo Ramen Street where you can try various styles of Ramen from all over Japan, as well as the wonderful basement food section of Daimaru department store where you can buy any kind of Japanese or Western food, desserts, drinks and more to takeaway, perfect for a picnic nearby.

PRO TIP — Marunouchi at Night

        Discovering Marunouchi after hours, especially on a rainy night, reveals a quieter, cinematic side of Tokyo. As the office crowds disperse and the streets empty, the area transforms into a peaceful, almost deserted landscape. The rain-soaked streets mirror the towering skyscrapers, creating stunning reflections that seem straight out of a movie scene. With the lights shimmering off the wet pavement, Marunouchi becomes a hidden gem for photographers and those seeking a serene, atmospheric view of Tokyo.

        About half-an-hour train ride away from central Tokyo, Todoroki Valley is a beautiful getaway from the city, and a place where you can truly forget about the stresses and hustle of everyday life . From Todoroki Station, find the entrance to Todoroki Valley next to Seijo Ishii supermarket and descend down into this Studio Ghibli-esque wonder of nature and walk along the small river which carves through Tokyo like a small urban jungle. The pathway will lead you past several small shrines and across a picturesque bridge until you reach Setsugekka, a lovely tea house which offers green tea, amazake and a variety of Japanese sweets.

        Oh Nakano. Just a few stops from the bright lights of Shinjuku, yet you feel like a world of your own. Your streets are a blend of nostalgia and discovery — where smoky izakayas stand side by side with otaku stores and offbeat cafes, each with a story to tell. A wild night out in this area of town is as much a rite of passage as choosing the perfect dish to order, whether it’s a simple bowl of udon in an underground eatery, or a perfectly cooked Japanese fushion pizza.

There’s a rhythm to your narrow alleyways, a quiet hum that comes alive as the day unfolds. In Nakano Broadway, I wander past vintage manga and quirky collectibles, feeling the pulse of a city that loves its past but isn’t afraid to play with the present. As the sun sets, you reveal a different side — warm lights spilling from izakayas, locals gathering for drinks, and a sense of community that’s rare in a city so vast.

        Start your journey moving north from the station, and you’ll enter Nakano Broadway, the beating heart of this town. Nakano Broadway is a complex place, and each floor in this busy shopping street has its completey own character and crowd. Take the escalator downstairs and you’ll find a crowded cluster of corridors with shops selling Japanese, Korean and other Asian groceries, used kimono, an old-school shoe repair shop, and eateries selling snacks and sweets. Daimon, is a legendary udon shop, open only for lunch, that sees a never-ending line of locals waiting to devour one of the shops meat covered noodle soups. It’s perhaps one of Tokyo’s best udon shops so be ready to get in line early or simply be patient, because this eatery will not disappoint. 

 

        Make your way upstairs to the second, third and forth floor where many more shops and eateries await, but here yet another crowd will find their own little paradise. Nakano Broadway is famous for its stores specializing in anime, manga, and pop culture memorabilia, with tiny stores filled with figurines, gaming cards, and other collectibles. 

Gaocchi on the 3rd floor is one such store, it’s narrow aisles filled with old-school toys and figurines. The most famous of them all is Mandarake — split into multiple shops on several floors, selling all kinds of manga and anime related goods. Die-hard fans of Takashi Murakami will want to check out Tonari no Zingaro on the 4th floor, where the artist’s famous plush flower pillows, stickers, shirts and more are sold for jaw-dropping prices. The overhyped Zingaro café on the other hand, is best skipped for more authentic spots in Nakano. 

        Fujiya Camera is another staple institution of Nakano, offering some of Tokyo’s best selection of vintage cameras cameras including rare to find models and film. The store is divided into two main buildings each specializing in either photography or filming equipment. 

If you’re looking for a place to unwind, head to LOU, located further north on Nakano’s famous bar street. This hip café offers a nice, though slighly overpriced, selection of drinks and snacks, with a few outdoor tables perfect for soaking up the local atmosphere.

        If you happen to visit in the late afternoon, be sure to make your way straight north into Yakushi Ai Shopping Street, the quieter, yet equally interesting sibling to its bar street further south. There are a few great restaurants on this street, Minami Indo Dining serving up authentic South Indian cuisine and delicious chai, New York Nakano, a hip izakaya favored by locals, and Ippuk, which serves yakisoba and desserts in a modern setting.

Most importantly however, be sure to catch the stunning late afternoon glow at this curiously photogenic pedestrian crossing, where a small pink kebab shop sits at a star-shaped corner near the local temple.

        After the sun has set and blue hour sets in, it’s time to dive in. Nakano at night is most people come for. Multiple side streets run north to south just east of the station, and here you will find hundreds of izakayas, eateries, bars and restaurants that serve drinks and local grub until the very early morning hours. 

There are too many spots to list, but some local favorites to check out are, Sansai (modern sake bar), Tototo (Japanese fusion pizza-pasta bar), Bar VICTORIA (cocktails), Bia Hoi Chop (casual vietnamese), Tokiwarai (izakaya) and PachiPachi (standing izakaya). Near PachiPachi you will find a hidden square with some small izakayas next to a beautiful, large tree and the now defunct, but iconic World Kaikan building. 

        Besides its culinary delights, the backstreets of Nakano are known for their retro lanterns, cables, and signs, making this part of town one of the most photogenic spots to capture the essence of nighttime Tokyo. Even if you’re not planning to go out, be sure to soak in the atmosphere and explore the many small side streets in the area — you’re sure to stumble upon something unique.

        If you are still in the mood for bar hopping, you can make your way down to Nakano’s quieter south side and brick street with a few European-looking restaurants and bars. Parpunte down a narrow alleyway is little known, but serves some of this areas most delicious Italian inspired food in a casual setting. 

If you’re visiting during the warmer season, you can also grab a few drinks and snacks from the nearby shops and make your way to Nakano Central Park, which is one of Tokyo’s few grass parks that allows picknicks and gatherings late into the night.


Photos: Sybilla Patrizia and Hidekazu Tsutsui

        Only minutes away from central Tokyo via the Tokyo Monorail or Rinkai Line, lies Tennozu Isle (or “Tennoz”), somewhat of a newcomer on the Tokyo Art and Design scene but one that hit like a bomb and now attracts some the city’s most exciting players in the art market.

Best visited on a sunny day for its seaside feel and boardwalk, Tennozu Isle offers both great dining options and art entertainment.

Start your tour at Pigment, one of Tokyo’s premier color pigment stores (and certainly the city’s most beautiful) where you can choose your favorite color out of what seems like thousands of pigments.

        If you are interested in architecture, stop by the nearby ARCHI-DEPOT Museum which specialises in contemporary architectural models and also has a lovely little design store.

Now, make your way over to Tennozu Isle’s two most interesting streets: Bond Street and the wooden boardwalk.

Check out the exhibitions at IMA Gallery and B&C Hall which have contemporary photography and art exhibitons on pretty much all the time.

        If you are looking for refreshment or lunch we recommend breadworks Tennoz, Soholm or T.Y. HARBOR, the latter of which boasts its very own River Lounge.

Once a month, Tennozu Isle becomes host to the monthly Tennoz Harbor Market featuring 200m of stalls selling anything from food and drinks to vintage items and clothes. If you are in for more art, head over the bridge to Terrada Art Complex, another repurposed warehouse home to a selection of galleries, pop-up spaces and art events.

        Make sure to also stop by at Slow House, located in between Bond Street and the boardwalk side of the island which is a local’s favorite concept store featuring some sleek interior, tableware, furniture and more.

End your day with cocktails at T.Y. HARBOR’s beer bar or head over to Tennozu Pier and take a seat on one of the stairs by the water.

In this guide                     

        With its busy side streets, historic temple and shitamachi feel, Asakusa might be one of the last areas of Tokyo that manages to preserve the Edo-era vibe.

Before you head off to explore Senso-ji temple, be sure to catch the stellar view from the rooftop of Kengo Kuma-designed Asakusa Tourist Office and stop by Azuma Bridge over the Sumida River for that famous view of Tokyo Skytree and Philippe Starck’s Asahi Beer Tower, decorated with its signature Flamme d’Or (or golden turd, whichever one you prefer).

From Azuma Bridge you can also take short river cruises along the Sumida River, which offer a somewhat interesting view of Tokyo’s concrete jungle on sunny days, but are mostly useful if you are heading for some matcha at Hamarikyu Garden’s Tea House.

        After taking in the marvelous views, walk through Kaminarimon Gate and stroll towards Senso-ji Temple via Nakamise Street and its side streets, which are the perfect place to grab that very Japanese souvenir for your friends, marvel at gorgeous kimono stores and also offer the chance to try some local culinary delights.

        While it might be a temptation to spend your whole afternoon exploring the trinkets and snacks of Nakamise Street, be sure to turn left onto Denbo-in Street and Nishi-Sando Street which are both west of Nakamise Street and Senso-ji Temple. Kocho is an outstanding little vintage kimono store (look for the ninja on top of its roof) which sells both real silk kimonos, cotton yukatas and all necessary accessories for very reasonable prices. 

        Finally, it’s time to satisfy your culinary cravings. At Kokone on Nakamise Street, line up to get your hands on one of the famous Age-Manju, which are deep-fried mochi, filled with various delicacies such as sesame, pumpkin, matcha, chocolate and more. Another must-eat Japanese sweet is Taiyaki at Kurikoan, a traditional fish-shaped waffle filled with similar fillings as age-manju.

Yifang is a Taiwanese fresh- fruit and tapioca tea specialist, perfect for that refreshing caffeine boost midday. Green tea ice cream aficionados will want to make their way towards Suzukien north of Senso-ji, which boasts a staggering seven different levels of matcha ice cream, of which no. 7 is said to be the world’s strongest green tea ice cream (you have been warned).

        Pro tip: If you can manage to stick around until the evening when shops have closed, you can explore Sensoji temple and its surrounding streets in peace and quiet and marvel at the beauty of the temple’s illuminated lanterns, statues and gates with only few people around.

At night, Nakamise street, which is usually overrun with tourists, turns into a quiet outdoor gallery where you can enjoy imagery of traditional Japanese woodblock prints which are painted on nearly all of the shops’ closed shutters.

Further in the back, bars open late at night serve cold drinks and quick bites to locals who populate this area after all tourists have left.

        Due to its proximity to several universities and publishing houses, Jimbocho has become the mecca of used bookstores and quaint coffeeshops loved by the bookworms of Tokyo.

Possibly the world’s most beautiful paper shop, a quirky hut café, stylish hole-in-the-wall coffeeshops and, of course, countless stores selling antique books, posters and vintage woodblock prints make this area a perfect destination for an afternoon of going back in time.

Most stores in Jimbocho don’t open until 11am, so start your day first with an artisanal coffee from GLITCH COFFEE & ROASTERS, a small, but popular coffeeshop just south of Jimbocho where the baristas roast coffee beans in store, filling the shop with an irresistible aroma of coffee. After quenching your caffeine cravings, head to the center of Jimbocho, a quaint neighborhood based around a large main street and several small side streets which are lined with vintage bookstores, print shops, small galleries and cafés.

         Photography lovers will want to start their journey at Komiyama, a 4-story vintage bookstore heaven which has been selling fashion magazines, photography books, design prints and other art pieces since their founding in 1939.

Bohemian’s Guild,  just around the corner, is quite a bit smaller than Komiyama, but also has a great selection of art and design related vintage books on offer, featuring many well-known Japanese and non-Japanese artists. 

Over at Ohya Shobo, you will find yourself transported back in time, while browsing through its illustrated books and ancient maps of Japan from the Edo period. Ohya Shobo is also a great place to pick up an original woodblock print (ukiyo-e) from its stack of works by slightly less famous artists, or, you might want to opt for a copy of one of the world-renown works of Hokusai, Hiroshige, Eisen and others. 

         Continue your travel through ancient Japan at Isseido, an early-20th century institution which not only survived the great earthquake of 1923 but also the Tokyo bombings of World War II, making it one of the last true representatives of pre-war Japan. Going to Isseido means diving into a world that seems long lost; with books, manuscripts and woodblock prints telling stories of exploration, mountaineering, ancient Japan, pre-war fashion, traditional Asian arts and more. 

Across the street at Yamada Shoten, make your way up to the second and third floors where you will discover a small, free gallery space showcasing a wonderful selection of woodblock prints from the Edo period along with more recent works of printed art. If you are in for a serious art buy, this is also your chance to pick up an original woodblock print for your art collection. Price start from a few hundred US dollars.

         Jimbocho might be the mecca of old bookstores and cosy coffeeshops, but it’s also home to some of Tokyo’s most cutting-edge art and design.

With its razor-sharp triangular steel façade and an eye-catching design, Jimbocho Theatre stands in stark contrast to its slightly dated surroundings. Located in a small side street of Jimbocho, it’s easy to miss this architectural gem, which houses a cinema, theatre and community art space.

Further down the street enter TAKEO’s Tokyo flagship store, where you will find yourself overwhelmed by the selection of approx. 7000 papers on display. TAKEO is not only legendary for its wonderful selection of paper, but even more so for its stunning shop design, where papers are arranged in a rainbow of colors, making it almost impossible not to pick up a few sheets during your visit. 

After filling your mind with inspiration for your next paper-based project, head north to SUPER LABO, a sleek store-meets-gallery of one of Japan’s most exciting independent photo book publishers, which distributes works by some of the photography world’s biggest names as well as up-and-coming artists. 

         After recharging your batteries, make your way back towards Jimbocho’s main street to explore three more stores. Anegawa Bookstore Nyankodo is a legend among Jimbocho’s bookstores, and not for its history, but because it might just be Tokyo’s only bookstore dedicated exclusively to books and goods featuring cats. 

Across the street at Vintage Jimbocho, delve into the world of colorful retro posters, magazines and panflets of films, TV dramas, idol groups, music bands and more from various periods of the last century. Whether its an original Star Wars Episode 5 poster, or a tacky magazine featuring your favorite 90s boy group - Vintage Jimbocho will not disappoint. 

Finally, for your last stop head to Kitazawa Book Store,  at the west end of Jimbocho, which can be reached by climbing the vintage staircase inside Book House Cafe. Founded in 1902 with the aim of bringing international books to Jimbocho, Kitazawa Book Store still carries one of the area’s best selection of rare English literature and philosophy books which are housed in antique European display cases, making you forget - just for a moment - that you are still in the middle of Tokyo. 

        Once notorious for its shady nightlife and underground gangster dealings, Roppongi has evolved to become Tokyo’s biggest contemporary art hub with such giants as The National Arts Center, Tokyo, Suntory Art Museum, 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT and the Mori Art Museum now all housed within just a few minutes of each other. Roppongi also becomes host to the Tokyo International Film Festival in autumn and Roppongi Art Night in spring, so be sure to check for events around the Ropppongi area when you are planning on visiting.

If you are lost as to which museums to check out first, head over to our very own guide to Tokyo’s Best Art and Design Museums + Galleries.

        While being host to some of Tokyo’s most exciting art and design museums, Roppongi is also the home of Tokyo Midtown, a luxury shopping and business complex just north of Roppongi station, where you’ll find the Suntory Museum of Art, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, the Fujifilm headquarters and a range of exciting fashion, design and gourmet boutiques.

Start your exploration of Midtown at its Galleria underground gourmet floor which features the beautiful shop, café and gallery of Toraya, a renown producer of traditional Japanese sweets. Work you way up through the first and second “fashion” floors until you reach Midtown’s third “interior & design” floor featuring the outstanding interior design shop of Time & Style as well as Nihonbashi Kiya’s sleek knife shop. 

        Continue your journey through Tokyo Midtown-wonderland and grab a meal at one of the terrace-side restaurants, which boast a beautiful view over the wonderful Tokyo Midtown Garden, which, during cherry blossom season, turns into one of the city’s best hanami spots. 

You may also decide to get one of the culinary delights of Midtown’s B1F to go and take a seat in the Midtown Garden, which can be reached via a couple of footbridges directly from the shopping mall. Also inside Tokyo Midtown Garden is 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT, a must-visit gallery for any design and photography lover, built by none other than legendary architect Tadao Ando.

Tokyo Midtown Garden also regularly hosts wonderful seasonal events such as pop-up art installations, an outdoor cocktail bar and footbath in the summer, an ice-skating rink in the winter, free yoga events etc., making it an exciting destination to visit all-year-round.

        Once you leave Tokyo Midtown behind you and make your way south, you will hit Roppongi’s main street with its ugly intercity highway bridge and mostly uninteresting shops and restaurants. 
 
As your last stop for the day, make your way back west towards Roppongi Hills. There you will find the Mori Art Museum, TOHO Cinemas (which becomes the venue for the Tokyo International Film Festival in autumn), the famous Maman Spider Sculpture by Louise Bourgeoisas, well as a range of shops, restaurants and bars in and around Mori Tower that make for a great night out in Roppongi. 

        Being home to pretty much any specialized neighboorhood imaginable, such as the famed Akihabara electronic town, Kappabashi kitchenware town and Jimbocho vintage book town, it is really no surprise that Tokyo also boasts its very own area dedicated to nothing but textiles.

Nippori Fabric Town lies in a quiet part of Nippori, just east  of the Yamanote Line station and makes for just as exciting of an adventure for fabric aficionados, as it does for most of us non-connoisseurs. With over 90 shops (see a full map here) selling anything from fabrics, leather, buttons, zippers, beads - you name it - Nippori Fabric Town has established itself as a hotspot for Tokyo’s textile lovers over the past century and is an ideal place to get some inspiration for your next creative endeavor.

        Start your journey through Nippori Fabric Town by making your way up the central street (Chuo-dori) that runs towards the east of Nippori Station and you’ll soon notice the yellow signs that mark the beginning of textile heaven. 

Tomato is perhaps the neighbourhood’s most famous and easily most recognizable establishment, boasting several shops along the main street and a main building that stretches over a whopping five floors. Each of Tomato’s stores is dedicated to slightly different types of fabrics including textiles for interiors, a shop dedicated to sewing kits and even an outlet where can have your very own fabric designs printed. 

        Lovers of Japanese-pattern textiles will want to make a stop at Mihama and Tsukiyasu which both sell hundreds of fabrics in various Japanese patterns for Japanese-style garments, souvenirs or even wall-art pieces. 

Like Tomato, And Leather is also divided into several shops, although smaller, where you can find not just leather pieces but also leather-related accessories and even kits to make your very own, custom-made leather goods.

Maki Ito is a quirky little shop that sells custom-cut leather and fur products of many kinds, while also offering a repair service for clothing and accessories such as leather jackets, bags, fur coats, scarves etc. The shop is easy to miss, so look out for the street displays of buttons, metal accessories and leather pieces that mark the entrance of the shop.

        If it’s colorful buttons, badges and beads you are after, then head to NIPPORIOMARU and On-travelling which sell a plethora of sewing accessories you cannot miss. NIPPORIOMARU’s rainbow walls of beads are arranged like a vintage candy store, while On-Travelling sells many cute sewing accessories that will make kawaii lovers’ hearts beat faster.

Make your way down further on the main street, which will slowly start to quiet down, and discover more local gems such as humongous, which sells woodblock-printed fabrics, or Yasuda Shoten which specializes in hemp textiles. 

On your way back towards Nippori Station, be sure to make your final stop at Momo, a hip store selling many original fabrics made from natural materials such as hemp, linen, silk and cotton which do not just feel, but also simply look good. 

From famous Shibuya Crossing, to Hachiko’s heartbreaking story and legendary gyaru culture, Shibuya certainly doesn’t need any introductions. Having undergone vast renovations ahead of the 2020 Olympics, the area around Shibuya station is changing almost monthly, now featuring a new observation deck and lounge overlooking Shibuya crossing on top of Scramble Square, newly revamped fashion temple PARCO, Shibuya Stream and eventually a completely overhauled Hachiko Station Square. 

With Shibuya 109, Loft, Muji and other big retailers boasting some of their best Tokyo stores in this area, Shibuya is a haven of young fashion, design and more, leaving absolutely nothing to desired for if you are looking for a quintessential Tokyo shopping experience.

If you want to break away from all the craziness, make your way up the hill North to Jinnan or Northwest to Tomigaya, Shibuya’s design-conscious neighbors which feature amazing cocktail bars and tranquil fashion boutiques away from all the hustle and bustle. 

Don’t forget to finish your night with a snack at one of Shibuya’s backstreet alleys and a stroll through the legendary love hotel hill at Dogenzaka.

        Even though Tsukiji’s inner market, legendary for its grand tuna auctions, was moved to Toyosu in October 2018, Tsukiji’s outer market is still very much bustling with shops, restaurants and stalls selling some of Tokyo’s freshest sushi, grilled seafood and other delicacies, making it pehaps Tokyo’s best food market experience. You can opt for an early sushi breakfast (some restaurants here open as early as 5am) or get in a bit later for lunch, but be sure to arrive early as most stalls and eateries close their doors around or just after lunchtime.

         It’s hard to say which restaurants in Tsukiji are really the best, and many guides claim to know exactly which places are no. 1 for Sushi or no. 1 for Tamagoyaki, but let’s be honest: It’s probably hard to find a food stall or restaurant in Tsukiji that isn’t good. Since fresh fish is delivered daily from the new Toyosu fish market, you are pretty much guaranteed to get your hands on some of Tokyo’s best fish and seafood, so walk around and indulge in as many of Tsukiji’s delicacies your stomach can handle. 

A few food recommendations to get you started:

• Sushi (of course)
• Chirashizushi (Bowl of sushi rice topped with raw fish or seafood)
• Grilled oysters or scallops
• Tamagoyaki (Rolled Egg Omelette)
• Seafood Tempura

        Now that you’ve filled your tommy with the ocean’s bounty, it’s time for dessert, and oh Tsukiji does not disappoint.

Start with some glorious Strawberry Daifuku (300yen for one) at Soratsuki (we recommend the custard version), continue with buttery-soft warabi mochi (250yen for a stick of three), an artisan matcha latte (500yen) at Matcha Stand Maruni, soft serve ice cream or a skewer of fresh fruit.

        As the land of all things small and cute, it is no surprise that  miniature trees, aka bonsai, are still hugely popular in Japan. Little is it known however, that Tokyo’s neighboring Omiya City actually boasts its very own bonsai village, perfect for a day trip away from the hustle and bustle of the big city.

The origins of the Omiya Bonsai Village date back to the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 which left Tokyo in ruins but as a result gave birth to the creation of this very unique area.

Looking for a new location to call home, a group of Tokyo’s bonsai gardeners found spacious land with plenty of fresh water and fresh air in the city of Omiya, less than an hour north of central Tokyo. Soon after its foundation in 1925, the village established itself as one of Japan’s top bonsai areas, and became the host of the World Bonsai Convention in 1989 while now being considered to have one of the highest densities of bonsai gardens in the world.

Of the numerous bonsai gardens that were originally founded here almost 100 years ago, only six remain of which we will introduce to you our favorite selection.

        First, start your journey at the Omiya Bonsai Museum, which provides a great introduction into both the bonsai village, as well as the world of bonsai with all its beautiful shapes, sizes and pruning techniques. The museum is one of the few places in the village that allows visitors to take photos (garden area only) while also providing information in Japanese, English, Korean and Chinese. Inside the galleries and garden you can learn about the various types of room displays and many kinds of bonsai, some of which are up to a staggering 1000 years old.

The Omiya Bonsai Museum
︎2-24-3 Toro-cho, Kita Ward, Saitama City, Saitama
︎9:00-16:30 during March-October; 9:00-16:00 during November-February, Closed on Thursdays
︎Adult : 310yen; students, over 65: 150yen, children 100 yen
︎Google Maps
︎Website

        Lovers of bonsai should continue their exploration of the bonsai village at Mansei-en, an outstanding bonsai garden with welcomes its visitors through a beautiful wooden gate. Such as most gardens in the area, Mansei-en does not allow visitors to take photos, but you can make up for this by creating beautiful memories with your mind, while strolling through the many rows of luxurious bonsai on sale.

蔓青園 Mansei-en
︎285 Bonsai-cho, Kita-ku, Saitama City
︎9:00-16:00, Closed on Thursdays
︎Free entry
︎Google Maps
*no photos allowed inside the garden

        Further down the road you will find Seikō-en, a polished bonsai garden, nursery and school, originally founded in 1853 in Negishi, Tokyo. The many bonsai that the staff at Seikō-en groom, sell and take care of, are spread across a shop and garden which also house several beautifully preserved traditional buildings. Seikō-en also offers bonsai lessons in English for true bonsai-enthusiasts, which can be taken at its school in the bonsai village, or at Seikō-en’s Nihonbashi store.

清香園 Seikō-en
︎268 Bonsai-cho, Kita-ku, Saitama City
︎9:00-17:00, Closed on Thursdays
︎Free entry
︎Google Maps
︎Website
Photos courtesy of Seikō-en
*no photos allowed inside the garden

        Toju-en is another one of the bonsai village’s last remaining gardens, offering a selection of slighlty smaller bonsai that can be delivered straight to your home. Those looking for a bargain among the generally high-priced bonsai in the village, will be excited to know that Toju-en also sells a small selection of cheap b-range bonsai that aren’t considered perfect by the garden’s masters, but might still be more than acceptable for bonsai novices. 

藤樹園 Toju-en
︎247 Bonsai-cho, Kita-ku, Saitama City
︎9:30-16:00, Closed on Thursdays
︎Free entry
︎Google Maps
*no photos allowed inside the garden

        Lastly, stroll down the rows of Fuyo-en’s stunning bonsai garden which boasts some of the village’s most beautiful miniatures trees. Such as in all the other gardens, it is almost painful to not be able to take any photos of the stunning bonsai on display, but perhaps this is exactly one of the reasons why the bonsai village is such a special experience after all. 

芙蓉園 Fuyo-en
︎96 Bonsai-cho, Kita-ku, Saitama City
︎08:00-17:30, Closed on Thursdays
︎Free entry
︎Google Maps
︎Website
*no photos allowed inside the garden

If kawaii is your motto in life, then Harajuku’s ubiquitous cuteness, cheap fashion and colorful crowd will be nothing short of gratification to you. 

Fill your heart with cute love at Harry’s Hedgehog Café, stroll down the famouly crowded Takeshita Street, satisfy your stomach and senses at the Kawaii Monster Café and explore the area that is known as the birthplace of all things kawaii.